My wife was working in the lakes so I decided to join her and take my winter hack. A Cotic BFe 275 with Shimano XT / Zee drivetrain (1×10), Zee brakes and 160mm RS Pikes. There a several classic Lakeland rides on my riding bucket list and Nan Bield Pass is one of them. Today was a great opportunity.
We were staying in Ambleside so I made the journey to Staveley and battled along the narrow singletrack road to Kentmere and beyond. At this time of year and with the prevailing weather conditions there aren’t that many people out and about, so I was able to get parked at my preferred start point by Stile End. After devanning and kitting up I headed up the track past Stile End’s little complex of farm buildings up and over the brief starting climb with double track descent down into Sadgill. A pretty basic descent broken up with a couple of gates, you could have a bit of a play by skipping about and jumping off some of the little features in and around the trail if you so wish.
Once at Sadgill you need to get your head (and legs) into climbing mode as a 4km long, 400 vertical metre climb awaits you. The savvy mathemeticians will know that is a 1 in 10 incline and the first 2km only climbs 70m! I couldnt ride it all, I doubt anyone would in these greasy conditions, the man made bits of the trail give you little traction under rubber, you would certainly have no chance to stip if you were to ride in the opposite direction! The target was Gatescarth Pass where the first proper descent began. Towards the top you get a reel feeling of remoteness. At this point I had been in the clouds for a good 20 minutes, but there was a brief respite as the clouds around me cleared briefly and I was able to survey my surroundings. Stunning open mountain areas, like a giant moonscape. As I reached the top of the pass I actually had sun on my face for a few brief minutes. As it became overcast once again I began my descent towards Haweswater. A typical lakeland bridleway double track, with plenty of switchbacks, loose rocks of various sizes littered the track so picking your line was essential. Towards the bottom you could pick up some speed before a gate brings you to a premature halt. 100m or so further on is the bottom of the trail and the car park at the head of Haweswater. Drink your weak lemon drink, now! And eat your block of malt loaf. You’ll need the energy for the next phase of the ride!
2.3km and 410m of climbing with your bike on your back! The trail, which is supposedly a bridleway, is too steep and technical to ride, not wide enough to push your bike beside you and even with your bike on your back is tricky to navigate in cycling shoes! It was all made worthwhile though for the views back down the vally to Haweswater. It flattened around Small Tarn (an uninventedly named small Tarn, a small lake sat in the high ground) but was at its steepest in its final stages before you finally reach Nan Bield Pass. At the top of the pass there is a stone shelter to protect passers by from the typically strong and cold southerly wind that whips its way up the Kentmere valley. Three quarters of the way up the final climb, just below the cloud base, I had taken a photo that would make a great GMBN sumbission, looking back past Small Tarn to the head of Haweswater in the distance, seconds later the cloud descended and engulfed me. It stayed that way until I was well into the final descent.
I had hoped to take a photo of the final, iconic descent for this Blog’s cover photo, showing the series of switchbacks followed by an elongated trail stretching off into the distance, but it just wasnt to be. I put my spare jacket on, consumed an SGS energy gel (with caffeine) and had a piss. All in double quick time. It was bloody baltic and I just wanted to get down ASAP! Straight into the switchbacks I went, but they were tight and steppy, plus the loose slick rocks were greasy in the foggy conditions. I wasnt man enough to try and ride it all, opting for the marginally safer option of dismounting and walking down some sections. As disappointed as I was, I had to recognise that I was on my hardtail, I was alone, I had no phone signal and there was no bugger else about. If I had had a big OTB I would have been in a bad way, freezing cold and miles from help. Eventually I managed to find some flow and let the brakes off. The rocky chutes and trails were soon swapped for grassy (and boggy) sections, which made identifying the trail in the fog pretty damn difficult, especially with eyes watering. A well trodden rocky trail son re appeared and I continued on, a couple of small climbs broke the descent up until a short climb took me back to the van.
So as far as early January rides in the Lake District go, today was pretty awesome. I ticked off a bucket list ride, I navigated in high mountain terrain through dense fog, i carried my bike for over 2km uphill and rode some challenging technical trails. 10 miles in approx 3 hours. During busier times you will likely need to park up in Kentmere or Stavely which will add a fair few road miles to the start and finish of the ride, and a bigger group will need to account for varying riding speeds and mechanical issues. It can quite easily be a full day out!
tyred n cranky 